This little blog keeps you posted on our unique lap frames for hand quilting. From time to time we share a quilting tip or trick or even a "How to" video. In addition, we carry one of the largest selections of quilting books available online so we often will list our new releases.
The following youtube videos and instructions should help anyone new to rug braiding. You can create colorful cotton or denim rugs to match the decor of any room in your home. The process is easy to learn and lots of fun.
Easy to use spring loaded lever clamps your braid securely while you work.
Collect your scrap fabrics and cut them into strips that are 2-1/2" wide. Sew the ends together to create a longer strip of fabric. Make three of these long strips to start your braid.
Now attach the strips to the clamp on a Rug Braiding Stand. This will keep your fabric stable and organized while you work on the rug. Begin braiding by pulling the outer strips to the inside creating a simple braid. After you have completed about twelve inches of braid, loosen the braid by pulling down on the lever and feed the coil to the back side of the stand. Now begin braiding again. Repeat this process. Add more strips to the end as needed to create a long braid.
Disconnect the braid from the stand and lay your rug strips on the floor. Begin coiling the braid into the desired shape you want, either an oval or circle. You can use pins to secure it in the desired shape.
Lastly, sew the coil together starting from the center of the rug and maintain the desired shape as you go. Keep your stitches visible from this top side, because once it is completed you will flip the rug over. Now the top is the bottom! Now admire your new rug.
Help needed...
On a parting note, please remember I am a one man shop, stay at home dad with 4 beautiful children, who is trying to launch a new product line / business. This is no easy task with our limited advertising budget or should I say practically no budget. Many of you know others with the same interests as you so please share our links on facebook, twitter, google + and now Pintrest. Help spread the word and watch us grow. Thank you in advance and please email me with any feedback or post your comments below.
Just a few years ago, if you told me I would be building some of the finest rug hooking frames on the market I would have said..."What's a rug hooking frame?" I kind of stumbled onto this frame by accident. While selling my Original Design Barnett's Laptop Hoops, customers would email me asking for a longer bolt to be installed on the hoops. When I asked why, they explained they were rug hookers and needed it for the wider materials. As I asked more questions, I found out more and more about this rug hooking art and even visited a local shop, American Folk Art & Craft Supply in Hanover, MA.. Michele the owner was so helpful showing me the many styles of frames on the market and how each one differs. I even made a simple version of the Original Design Frame exclusively for her shop.
Rug Hooking Hoops
For my online store, http://stores.laptophoops.com/rug-hooking-frames/ I added my own version that includes our unique magnetic bottom, allowing you the ability to attach it to any of our Sit-On, Bean Bag lap bases or our floor stand. Another difference is the hoops. I am now steam bending my own round hoops. These Custom Steam Bent Barnett's Hoops are extra strong! This is needed for the extra weight of the rugs vs. a lighter weight quilt. These rug hooking hoops, 12", 14", 16" and 18" are now 2" deep vs. your standard quilt hoop that may be only 3/4" to 1" in depth. The added depth allows the "hooker" to use just a hoop on their lap. That extra depth is just enough space to keep the hook from poking you every time you go through the linen cloth. Polly Minick, a well known instructor and published author asked me to duplicate the hoop she uses in her rug hooking classes. Hoops of this size were discontinued about 15 to 20 years ago when the Norwood hoop company in Michigan closed its doors forever. I am happy to resupply the market with this unique size hoop once again. You can purchase any of my hoops installed on our unique "Laptop Hoop Base" or just by itself.
Gripper Frames
Another rug hooking frame that is commonly used is the gripper frame. They come in a variety of sizes, styles and materials. If you should do a google search, you will find hundreds of varieties available, from the most expensive high tech models to the "homemade" box frame. Let's just say most of them are poorly constructed by shops that are more concerned with how fast they can make a buck and very little attention to detail and the needs of the customer.
As I began my research into gripper frames, I wanted to design frames that would be of the highest quality, versatile, adjustable, and offer a wide variety of choices. What I discovered is many of the cheaper or inexpensive gripper frames is the quality is just not built into the product. Take a close look before you buy. Many of my gripper frames utilize a "channel", allowing you to replace the strips easily or switch them out to a different grade strip if you should change up the materials you are working on. Rug hooking is typically done on burlap or linen and requires an EH3 Howard Brush Gripper Strip. EH4 is for Monks cloth and EH5 is used when you punch needle. For punch needle you need a finer grade of grippers since the materials are more delicate, typically using embroidery floss or silk ribbon. Building the channel strips into the design has been a wise decision, allowing versatility in use and adding a higher level of quality to the frame.
Adjustable and a wide variety of choices was also very important in the design stage. Many companies offer just one size that does it all. From my experience working with quilter's, I know better. Each person has their own unique needs and the frames must accommodate the many different body types and sizes. A person who is 5'-2" will need a different size frame from a person who is 6'-2". Our unique lap bases and the floor stand allow you to position the frames into the most comfortable positions possible. The most comfortable size frames so far are the Barnett's 14" & 16" Octagon Frames. These are not easy to make, especially with the channel strips! Another new item that we just added is the Adjustable Angle Frame with a 13.75" x 16.75" outer dimension, ( 11.75" x 13.75" inner work area), as seen above here. It is our largest frame so far and I personally think it works best on our floor stand. Two large knobs quickly and easily adjust the frame into the perfect work angle. The larger table-like base adds stability and a great spot to store your scissors and tools when not in use. A customer of mine pointed out the magnets that are installed on the underside actually work through the wood and hold her scissors in place. She thought this was a neat little benefit that should be shared. This list of creations has grown even larger, with the introduction of a Collapsible Rug Hooking Frame, now available in 14" and 16" sizes. I am sure more sizes will follow. Each leg is held in place with super strong magnets and goes together in seconds.
I thought I would share this video from youtube that explains the basics and a bit of history of rug hooking.
Custom Orders
If you should ever have a specific need or size, just email me at laptophoops@comcast.net and I can build it for you. I never add a "custom order" charge but it may take a bit of time for me to design it and build it.
Help needed...
On a parting note, please remember I am a one man shop, stay at home dad with 4 beautiful children, who is trying to launch a new product line / business. This is no easy task. Many of you know other rug hookers or share links on facebook, twitter and now Pintrest. Please share this link, spread the word and help us out. Thank you in advance and please email me with any feedback or post your comments below.
I put together a small collection of hand quilting videos that I found on youtube. If you are new to hand quilting these should be very helpful. I also added a short video at the end of Trina, showing you a little demo of my Laptop Hoops.
For "Shameless Self Promotion Day" I want to share my Floor Stand / Lap Frame set up with the group. I redesigned this stand back in 2012 and oh my has it taken off as a success story. The feedback has been outstanding. I posted my customer reviews below the pictures. When I designed the stand, I wanted a simple, easy to use design that was well-made and perfectly balanced. ( I noticed other stands seem to be too light-weight and tippy.) I also kept it easy to assemble and take apart as there is only 5 pieces that easily bolt together with those "easy-turn" knobs. What started out as a functional floor stand has become a piece of fine furniture for many.
Adjustable Height - The floor stand has an adjustable height bar. The top frame will extend up to 38" in height. Find the ideal height for sitting in your favorite chair and set the height with one Easy Turn Knob and bolt.
Tilts & Spins - It has the same features as our other models that tilt and spin. One oversized knob adjusts the angle of the frame and a lazy susan spinner controls the rotation.
Removable - The top lap frame is removable since we have installed a magnetic plate that attaches to the lazy susan spinner.
Interchangeable- The frame is interchangeable with any other size Original Design, Vented or Rug Hooking lap frames that we sell. Pop off the top frame and pop on another size. (Other sizes sold seperately.)
I have my new floor stand and hoop loaded with my latest project in the living room. It easily slides under my chair for hand-stitching whenever I have a few minutes or more. The stand is beautifully crafted and easily adjusts in height for me to sit in various places according to the best light of the day. The overall design reflects smart engineering and simplicity of construction, making this a perfect addition to our Craftsman home.
Feel like a Quilter
Posted by Janet Joyner on 31st Dec 2014
As a beginner I have been struggling with perfecting the technique of hand quilting. Along with my "Aunt Becky" My new hoop and floor stand are the answers I have been looking for. My stitches are improving, becoming uniform and smaller each day. I love my Barnett products. Great quality and I loved the video showing how to put it together. Thank you Harry.
Another beautiful and functional product!
Posted by Vanessa on 5th Oct 2014
I am a new hand quilter. After ordering the 14 in square vented hoop and being amazed by the quality, I decided to go ahead and order the stand as well. As another reviewer stated, the difference in having the stand is amazing! It is so much easier to quilt this way, since the height is adjustable. The magnets on the back of the hoop make it so easy to attach to the rotating top of the stand. It helps you keep the correct posture while quilting, your back and neck will thank you! Again, the craftsmanship is beautiful! This stand also looks great as a piece of furniture, without a quilt in it. The finish is smooth and beautifully stained. I highly recommend this stand if you are planning on ordering one of Harry's hoops or already own one. It is definitely worth the price and will make your (quilting) life a lot easier!
Great hoop and Stand
Posted by Peggy on 3rd Aug 2014
I've found quilting a large piece very awkward and hot. SO I bit the bullet and ordered one of Harry's round 16" hoops. I love it because I can get my hand right in there to feel my needle without having to hold up a heavy quilt! BUT I'm only 5'2" and it was very large for the short length of my lap. SO once again I splurged and bought the stand. Oh my goodness, the difference that made. I love being able to turn the hoop in whatever direction I need too and let it stay from day to day on the stand. Right now I'm hand quilting a large, heavy t-shirt quilt but my next project is a small baby cross stitch quilt. I know Harry's stand will be versitile enough for most things I do. NOW practicallity aside, the work is beautiful. The cutting, the sanding, the staining is all excellant. I could not have spent my money in a better way. I'm 67 years old and this stand has made my quilting so much easier. I know I can pass the stand down to my daughters because it will be around much longer than I will! :)) Thanks Harry!!
Quality Floor Stand
Posted by Unknown on 8th May 2014
The stand is beautiful! I can't wait to get a piece in it. The finish is so fine. The natural look is so rich. The stand was easy to assemble and looks great in the living room!!
Hopefully these step by step pictures will show just how easy it is to
assemble and break down for storage.
Step 2 - Remove the Tilt Arm. It is held in place with one 5 star knob and a bolt.
Step 3 - Loosen up the lower Easy Turn T-knob and remove the top T-knob.
Step 4 - Now remove the two Star Knobs on the back plate and gently pull the plate off the stand.
Step 5 - Now remove the locking bolt as seen below. This will allow the height adjustment leg to pivot down into the front support legs for easy storage.
It should be a simple process that takes a minute or two tops. To assemble the frame, just reverse the process.
Check out what Nel made for all of us. Over the last couple months Nel and I and a group of quilters on Facebook have been designing many new items for quilting. Nel and I have been emailing each other, trying to improve on a couple designs and in her spare time she came up with this unique thread catcher bag and wanted to share it with you. Thank you Nel! This is awesome!!! Mini Thread Caddy with a built in thread cutter and Thread Heaven.
In addition to this Thread Catcher she helped design a new
Instructions for Thread Catcher for Barnett’s Laptop Hoop Sewing Caddy
Sewing pattern by Nel Eyre (eyren@aol.com)
Requirements
Barnett’s Thread Caddy(Note: The thread caddy pictured with the pattern was a prototype/early model) Usual sewing kit.
Fabric: A fat quarter is more than adequate. Two contrasting fabrics are particularly effective; in which case each piece needs to be about 7" x 18" (a fat eighth)
Mouse mat. You could use a piece of cork mat, but it’s a bit more fiddly to fit. Wadding/batting could be used. However, this is a bit lightweight and less stable.
Two four inch pieces of braid, grosgrain ribbon or even rope for straps; these could also be made from fabric scraps.
Optional:
Freezer paper or card to make master pattern. It is possible to make this by simply drawing directly onto the fabric.
Instructions
Collect together everything you need.
Draw around Caddy onto freezer paper. Create a second line about ¼" away from this line. I used a ‘magic ¼’ wheel, but a suitably sized button or a machine bobbin will do the job. The first line is the sewing line; the second line in the cutting line.
Cut out:
For single fabric
1 x circle the exact size of caddy from the mouse mat, using old scissors
2 x circles in fabric from paper pattern. Be careful to cut on cutting line!
4 x 4 ½" squares of fabric
2 straps, if required.
For a reversible bag
1 x circle the exact size of caddy from the mouse mat, using old scissors
1 x circle in fabric 1
1 x circle in fabric 2
2 x 4 ½" squares in fabric 1
2 x 4 ½" squares in fabric 2
2 straps, if required.
To make the bag
The following instructions are for the reversible bag, using two contrasting fabrics. If only using one fabric, proceed without reference to second fabric.
Optional straps: Take a rectangle of fabric 2 ½" wide by about 6" long. Place long edges together, right sides inwards and sew a ¼" seam. Turn through, press well, and cut into two pieces.
Sandwich the strap ends between two contrasting squares, placed right-sides together and stitch, using a ¼" seam.
Press seams open.
Stitch the other two pieces together and press.
Place the two pieces right sides together and stitch all round, leaving about an inch open for turning. Clip corners to reduce bulk.
To square out the base of the bag:
Pick up one corner and align the bottom seam with the side seam. (It helps if you open the seams) Measure ½" from the point and mark. Sew straight across the corner. Trim to 1/8" to reduce bulk.
Repeat with the other three corners.
[I find it easier to set the machine to sew forwards from the centre, then back up to the edge and then forward to the seam again. This seems to prevent the fabric disappearing through the footplate and creating a bird’s nest on the back.]
Turn the bag through; ladder-stitch the opening and press carefully. It is worth being picky at this point if you wish to make the bag reversible. Align all the seams and poke out the corners. Make sure the top is neat and the straps tidy.
Now to make the mat.
For the Mat
Place the outside coloured fabric circle face up and then place the completed bag, right side up, on top, with the straps overlapping the edge by an equal amount. Put a pin through each to stop them shifting. [I also put a pin into the bag to keep it still and out of the way of the next steps. It is most aggravating to find it caught in the stitching!]
Set the second fabric on top and stitch all the way round, leaving a fairly large gap to turn through and insert the mat. I sew a second time over the straps for security, and back stitch at the other end. The next bit is a bit ‘brutal’ so I don’t want anything to come unstitched.
Turn through, and press thoroughly.
Now. Roll the mouse mat circle into a tube and poke it through the hole you have left in the side of the mat. Let it open with the base side uppermost and carefully flatten it right up to the seam.
Be patient, here. It WILL go, but it is a very tight fit. If you really must, trim a minimal amount to make it lie flat, but your fabric will stretch a little, especially on the bias, and it looks smarter the tighter fit it is.
Close the opening with ladder stitch and press again. The mouse mat will soften, temporarily, with the heat of the iron, but I haven’t had one melt (yet), and it seems to snuggle it into the edges nicely.
Your thread catcher is complete. Turn the mat over and the bag through for a completely different look. It will protect your table from scratches, and it also makes a fine mug mat. I use my bag for my phone, on occasion, too.
